Then I should be able to just wire the top two prongs of my 4 prong plug. Then ill run my two battery series in the bow bringing 24v into the top of the receptacle. I think what im going to do is put the the cig lighter and courtesy light on with the starting battery so all accessories are run off that. If i ran two batteries in series at the bow it would then cause a prob with the voltage to the accessories. The starting battery runs the trim switch and batt meter switch. The bow battery runs the cig lighter, courtesy light and batt meter switch. The problem was that the leads coming from each batt have jumpers connected at the receptacle. Then I would have to do like you said and form the series at the plug. I thought about putting a second batt in the back and taking the lead to the front off of my starting batt, at least that way the TM wouldnt be pulling juice from that. If you make the connections at the plug, the plug is a mirror image of the receptacle. Now remember that the terminals I just mentioned are at the RECEPTACLE. You will then have +24 volts from the Lower right terminal on the receptacle and ground at the upper right terminal. If you have properly identified the receptacle connections as you indicated in your first post, then a jumper between the upper right terminal on the receptacle to the lower left terminal on the receptacle is necessary. If you insist on using whatever plug you have AND it OR the receptacle has screw type wiring connections in it, you need to make the series connection at the receptacle or the troller plug. Simple, and far less chance to make sparks. Or you could just do what I suggested, eliminate a long run (two actually) that eliminates unnecessary voltage drop and use just two pins. To get 24 volts from this system you need a matching four pin trolling motor plug that has the jumpers in it. There are two separate circuits (one from each battery going to the receptacle -hence the four wires. Your batteries are not in series or parallel. Regardless what you do some rewiring is necessary. The reason I suggested the two wire system is a) four wires are unnecessary and b) it eliiminates a long run of cable that causes voltage drop. You now have 24 volts going to the corresponding terminals at the receptacle.ĥ) Wire the trolling motor wires to the corresponding terminals on the plug. Tape the ends of the wires as they won't be used.ģ) Now connect the red & black pair as shown in the following diagram.Ĥ) Make a jumper that connects the positive of the left battery to the negative of the right battery. One pair is connected to each battery.Ģ) Totally disconnect the orange and black pair at the battery but DO NOT cut or remove them from the boat. Here is what you do.ġ) There should be two pairs of wires (usually one red & black and one orange & black) going up front. Note that you only need two wires since the series connection is made at the batteries rather than at the connector. Do you currently have a mating plug for this receptacle? If you do, the diagram below shows the simplest way to do this. It is just a four terminal plug and it was included because the boat manufacturer felt it was necessary to accommodate 12 volt, 24 volt, and combination 12/24 volt motors which are scarce as hens teeth new these days. NOTE: A fuse and fuse carrier (both sold separately) are required for installation.They have nothing to do with higher level fishing boats. The ConnectPro system also features a locking plug and receptacle with a spring clamping connection that provides a secure electrical contact. The superior electric current carrying capacity of the ConnectPro system eliminates problems that rob motors of power and reduce battery life. Marinco's ConnectPro 3-Wire Trolling Motor Plug and Receptacle system provides an easy way to make trolling motor DC connections. Easily replace your waterproof charging/trolling motor plugs and receptacles.
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